I think the nastiest drink I've ever drunk in my life was some stuff called mezcal in a Mexican market town. It's made, I find, from the same aloe-like plant that gives us tequila, of which mezcal is a kind of downmarket version, if you can imagine such a thing. When I bought my bottle at the grocer's it had a small packet tied to the neck. Inside was what looked like a shrimp in talcum powder. "What's that?" I asked my American friend. "That's the worm," he said, "the best part. You can try it without." I tried it without. My head filled with a taste of garage or repair shop—hot rubber and plastic, burnt oil and a whiff of hydrochloric-acid vapour from the charging engine. When I sold Mack the rest of the bottle he emptied in the pounded-up worm, recapped, shook, and poured himself a tumbler of greyish liquid with little pink shreds in it. Give me Tizer any day.
I haven't yet sampled Ruou Tiet De, a North Vietnamese mixture of rice alcohol and goat's blood, or Central Asian koumis, fermented from mare's and camel's milk. Sake, a sweetish rice beer[…]
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